Helen Blanchard

Helen Blanchard invented the zig-zag sewing machine. By making significant improvements to existing machine designs, Blanchard’s work enabled the industrial growth of sewing machines and advanced the fashion and textile industries.

Born in Portland, Maine, in 1840, Blanchard showed an interest in and aptitude for working with mechanical devices from a young age. Though she grew up at a time when women rarely were encouraged or afforded the opportunity to pursue careers, especially in technical fields, Blanchard was ahead of her time. When her family encountered financial challenges, she began patenting inventions.

Blanchard’s father, Nathaniel Blanchard, had been a wealthy shipping merchant, but his family’s circumstances had begun to change after a series of financial setbacks. In 1866, a widespread business panic led the family to lose their savings, and after the death of Nathaniel Blanchard in 1871, the family had to sell their property.

Blanchard moved to Boston for work, and after briefly running a boarding house, she found a job in a clothing factory. Here, as she worked with sewing machines, she found inspiration for her first and most impactful invention.

In 1873, Blanchard borrowed money to pay for her first patent — on the zig-zag stitch sewing machine — and this investment paid off. The zig-zag stitch, unique to Blanchard’s patent, is a versatile back-and-forth stitch. It is often used in reinforcing buttonholes, working with stretchable fabrics and finishing seams. By sealing the edges of a seam, it results in sturdier, longer-lasting garments.

The zig-zag sewing machine was a major success, even becoming standard in factories as it saved both time and money in the commercial sewing industry.

Blanchard continued to make incremental improvements in both sewing machines and needles, patenting inventions including over-seaming machines, an improvement in methods of uniting knit goods, and a crochet attachment for sewing machines. She also invented new and improved elastic gores for the shoe industry.

From 1873 through 1915, Blanchard earned 28 patents, 22 of which were put to use in large commercial clothing factories. Additionally, Blanchard reached beyond the clothing industry to develop inventions like a pencil sharpener and surgical needles.

After Blanchard moved to Philadelphia with her sister, Louise Blanchard, the pair started their own company together. The Blanchard Over-Seam Co. was established in 1881 and proved to be very profitable.

In the 1890s, Blanchard moved to New York, where she became known for her philanthropy. She especially was interested in helping women who had lost work in clothing factories when they were displaced by her sewing machines.

As she generated considerable wealth from her patents and her business, Blanchard eventually was able to buy back some of the properties her family previously had lost. In 1901, she returned to her family home in Portland, where she continued to invent.